“What really struck me was their kindness.” That is how Michel de Matteis praised the warm welcome he received during a two-week training mission to Serena Hotels & Resorts. The group, which owns 35 properties in East Africa—as well as Afghanistan, Pakistan and Tajikistan—was seeking to train its chefs and pastry chefs… in its flagship hotel in Nairobi, Kenya! “They really went out of their way to make us feel at home,” de Matteis continued. EHL Hospitality Business School was missioned by Serena to train around 20 of their best chefs in various techniques in the areas of cooking, pastry making and baking.
Adapting to your audience
Organizing a two-week training session with chefs from multiple countries entailed unique challenges for the EHL delegation. First, the recipes needed to be translated urgently from French to English, then tweaked to account for religious and social requirements. Vinegar, which contains trace amounts of alcohol, was swapped for lemon juice, for instance. Many of the meat dishes were nixed in favor of vegetarian ones. Michel de Matteis landed in Nairobi and quickly realized that adjustments needed to be made, particularly due to a lack of equipment.
In addition, language was always going to be a challenge. But all participants made an effort to communicate, in English, as best they could. “There was a lot of ‘Franglais’ [mix of French and English],” according to de Matteis, “but in cooking, basic English works just fine.”
An introduction to the “bistronomy” concept
As head chef at EHL’s shiny new 1893 restaurant, he oversees all aspects of the kitchen. But what exactly is bistronomy? It combines the food and ambiance of a bistro with the exacting standards of a gastronomic restaurant. As a lowkey, pseudo-gourmet establishment, “Bistronomy is a sign of the times. People have less money but want to have a good time and eat well for under CHF 100 per person,” according to de Matteis. Currently in its fourth decade, his career has taken the France native from Mauritius to Switzerland and back. De Matteis earned ‘Meilleur Ouvrier de France’ status over thirty years ago, but is still as passionate as ever to share his knowledge and expertise.
What about the training program’s results?
For de Matteis, the proof is in the pudding. “Over the course of four days, I showed them the recipes from A to Z, although they of course had an excellent grasp of the basics”, de Matteis explained before continuing, “then on the last day they had to execute the recipe for the group’s upper management, so they were under some pressure.” The executives at Serena Hotels & Resorts were delighted with the dishes they were served. “I thought it was great how quickly the chefs caught on. In the days and weeks since the program, I’ve received messages from the participants showing how they’ve adapted the recipes to their restaurants, whether in Pakistan, Tanzania or Kenya.”
Training in the heart of East Africa
While EHL is regularly asked to lead training programs, both at home and abroad, rarely are they in such far-flung destinations. The training program was held in the kitchens of the five-star Nairobi Serena hotel, located on the outskirts of the Kenyan capital. The 199-room hotel has numerous conference and banquet rooms and regularly organizes important events. Its F&B offer reflects Serena’s international presence, with a pan-Asian themed restaurant and a North African-inspired fine dining outlet. Despite a packed schedule, participants and instructors alike found time to discover the surrounding wildlife as well as the city’s cultural offerings. Perhaps more importantly, “a real connection was made” among participants, according to de Matteis. In addition to a memorable experience, the Serena chefs returned to their kitchens with a thick booklet of EHL recipes from which they can build their own creations.
A win-win for trainer and trainee
On a regular basis, EHL is missioned by various organizations to disseminate the technical expertise and soft skills that are a hallmark of the undergraduate and graduate programs. The chefs working in Serena hotels received technical instruction about how to prepare various dishes ranging from pike-perch mousse in a spinach sauce to lamb shoulder to vegan chocolate cake.
For the EHL lecturers, which also included pastry chefs Julien Boutonnet and Julien Gradoz as well as baker Brian Boclet, it was an opportunity to flex their pedagogical muscles with adults from a very different background from the 18-year-olds in EHL’s esteemed first-year program. Lastly, Mattia Sanavia, a chef at the Berceau des Sens (EHL’s one-Michelin star gourmet restaurant) seconded de Matteis throughout the training program.
“It was my first time in Kenya and I was really blown away by the hospitality,” concluded Chef de Matteis who is already planning to return to further explore the country’s natural wonders.